In anticipation of the Dryft seafood and pasta restaurant opening in Wellesley’s Linden Square this summer, we paid a visit to the original Dryft across from Revere Beach on a mid-April Saturday night (about a 45-minute drive from Wellesley with a bit of city traffic).

We reserved for a party of five at Dryft (500 Ocean Ave., Revere), and it’s a good thing we made reservations as this cosmopolitan spot was busy that night. So busy, in fact, that we were told at the outset that we’d be limited at our table for 90 minutes, and it felt at times as though there was a timer ticking away over our heads (service was efficient, but we definitely felt like we were being moved along). We scouted for street parking but wound up using the garage ($8 per hour) at the apartment building that Dryft calls home.

The restaurant has outdoor seating when the weather is nice, and great views of the ocean across the street (Wellesley’s Select Board has been reviewing outdoor dining music rules that will affect how Dryft approaches things in Linden Square). The night we went it was still chilly, so we headed inside, past the generously sized bar and to our table amidst the buzz of patrons around us.

The venue features high ceilings and fancy lighting, and during our meal at dusk, the sky was putting on a brilliant sunset show. Dryft in Revere was loud, between the chattering customers and the chill house music that played in the background, but that all added up to a lively experience.

The highlight at Dryft was the food from executive chef Adriano Silva and team. The menu offers a varied but not overwhelming array of choices.

Starters range in price from $11 (blistered Shishito Peppers) to $23 (grilled octopus), and entrees stretch from $18 (burger) to $54 (surf ‘n turf).

We began with the buffalo cauliflower, which had a good kick and firm texture, and the shaved brussels sprouts salad, a light springtime offering (not the charred variety so popular on autumn menus). We also opted for a serving of focaccia bread, which was fresh and lightly oiled.

Among our entrees was the shrimp limoncello (half and full portions available). The full made for a solid meal, with plump shrimp over spaghetti dressed with a creamy lemon sauce—a perfect choice to experience Dryft’s seafood and homemade pasta, the latter of which had a noticeably fresher taste than standard pasta.

We also ordered the potato gnocchi, which our companion said was tastier and easier than the recipe he’s made at home. Dryft’s edition includes a soft cheese called Stracciatella, plus braised short ribs.

The bolognese was a hit too for our friend with a shellfish allergy, as she stuck with a pasta dish. This mix of rigatoni, parmesan and basil hit the spot, with a good sauce-to-pasta ratio.

We ordered a side of sautéed spinach to make sure we got our veggies in amongst all the seafood and pasta. We emptied that dish between us.

We were tempted by the desserts ($12 apiece), but passed on them. We were plenty full from the main course and apps.

A return visit could be in order when the temps warm and the seating opens outside. Then again, our next stop could be the Dryft down the street when it opens in Linden Square.

Michael Aldi, the principal behind Dryft, also runs the Fine Line (Revere) and Vivi’s Tapas Bar in Revere. So he gives you choices if you do venture to Revere Beach for dining and fun.

More: Wellesley Dryft’s website

More: Where to eat in Wellesley